Lockdown Wine Diaries entry 3: Define Intervention

Can you have ‘a bit of’ an epiphany or does that make a nonsense of the word – a bit like being ‘almost’ unique?  Anyway, I’ve certainly seen the light recently with a few wines I thought I’d got to grips with, only to be surprised – in a good way.

This time, the case is from Define Food and Wine in Cheshire – to continue with the analogy, a ‘cathedral’ of great wines and food in beautiful surroundings.  I’ve been there so many times, for coffee (they make great coffee), fresh pastel de natas and glorious brunch – only to aggravate my back with an extremely heavy bag of bottles on the way home – but no pain, no gain.

It is probably best, in normal circumstances, that it is a 40 minute drive away as I think I’d be in there most days, virtually bankrupt and perpetually hungover, albeit rather happy.  Now in the midst of lockdown, I’m relieved that they deliver.

As with previous blog posts, I’ll only focus on a few of my favorites and hope they might become yours too.

Bardos Verdejo 2019, Rueda, Spain – normally £11.50, currently reduced to £10.35

I opened the bottle, realising that I’ve not had a Verdejo in absolutely ages – it isn’t something you see everywhere.  I had forgotten how fabulous it can be and this wine certainly is.  Yes, fresh and fruity aromas/tastes (white stone fruit and a bit of nectarine), but with real depth of flavour and such a change from most neutral dry whites.  They age the wine (Verdejo is the grape variety by the way) on ‘fine lees’ for around 4 months after fermentation.  Lees are the dead yeast cells which have usually done their job in alcoholic fermentation – but this lot are on overtime.  They generally add ‘texture’ to the wine (give it a greater depth of flavour and interest).   We drank this with a relatively mild homemade chicken curry (I was unsure of the match, but it stood up to the dish no problem).  More traditionally it goes really well with fish. Yummy.  I’ve already ordered more.

Valenciso Rioja 2018 (white Rioja) – normally £20, currently reduced to £18

Another from Spain, albeit a different area.  White Rioja is still relatively rare in the shops.  As with the above, it is such a great alternative to ‘standard’ dry whites and this is most definitely a ‘food wine’.  I love this producer, whilst not cheap, their wines are outstanding IMHO.  Define also stocks Valenciso’s red Rioja too, which is gorgeous – always.    Whilst this has been aged in barrel (9 months) the oak is in no way overpowering.  Grape varieties are Viura and white Grenache.  I can’t now remember what we ate with it – white meat would be a great match or maybe fish with a creamy sauce.  Class in a glass.

Solara Orange wine 2018 from Cramele Recas vineyards, Romania – normally £10, currently reduced to £9 (bargain)

What a curve-ball and a delicious one at that  Yes it is orange, from Romania, certified vegan and to top it all,  has a fabulous label which could have been designed by Stanley Kubrik (should he ever have been a wine label designer).  The yellow brick road leading to a ‘Tellytubbies’ style orange slice in the distance is as intriguing as the wine itself.  I’ve tried this style of wine before and found that some can be rather bitter, but not this one.  The wine is made by leaving the grape skins and seeds in contact with the pressed juice, creating an orange-hued finish. The wine ferments naturally without the addition of yeasts, sulphur or any other additions, according to the website and there is a blend of grapes here, including 19% Sauvignon Blanc.  It is really fresh, has great acidity and an amazing texture.  This would be great with fried squid (I know, quite specific), but having tannins in white wine, which come from the skins, means it can be matched with many more dishes too.  I’ve ordered more!

Now on to my favourite red…..

Moorooduc Estate Pinot Noir 2015 – normally £24.50, currently £22.05

Yes a bit more expensive, but I saved this for a treat – and don’t we need one at the moment?!  I have actually visited this winery when in the Mornington Peninsula area, close to Melbourne in Australia. Richard, the owner and winemaker, is an ex-surgeon from the UK and such a lovely man who came in during our tasting to explain more about this small, family run business and his passion for wine.  For those who like a good red Burgundy, this is a style you’ll love.  The winery uses wild yeast ferments, rather than commercial yeasts and minimal chemicals.  With aromas and flavours of Red fruits and a savoury character, it is utterly delicious – we drank it with charcuterie and cheeses.

Wine is so fascinating, even when you think you know a thing or two about it, there are surprises in every bottle.  So keep on trying and supporting great ‘indies’ – hallelujah to that!